479 Back into Canada.  (3rd time)
 479 Advice for smooth border-crossing: be a sheep.
 480 The tides of international covetousness in British Columbia.
 483 A log cabin, the modern way.
 486 Again, down to -24ºC, and sinking.
 490 "Wilderness" delight: "No stopping - toxic gases".
 491 Freedom and intelligence, promoted by lack of driving directives.
 493 Hot springs piercing the cold.
 493 Sign of progress: ruined telecommunication wire-lines and posts.
 494 Thousands of hectares of burnt forests.
 495 Latitudinal tree-line, very slanted.
 497 Brushing the teeth in -17ºC.
 498 Yes, Canadian radio programs, more substantial than Vespuccian ones.
 500 Again, Arctic birds with "tropical" colors.
 500 Why was the Yukon Territory created?
 501 Bridge with different load capacities at different temperatures.
 502 Straight to the Arctic Ocean.
 503 "Snowballs" with wings.
 504 Tracks in the snow, some peaceful, some dramatic.
 505 Watch for airplanes landing on road.
 505 First Circumpolar Lights.
 506 Across the Polar Circle.
 507 Severe, splendid environment.
 507 Catastrophe: it could be the end of the Expedition, it shall not be; we >>>>>could have been dead, we are not; the vehicle could have been smashed, it >>>>>is only severely out-of-square.
 511 As is, to the Arctic Ocean, forward.
 512 Backwardness of trust and courtesy among strangers.
 512 Frozen hell.
 513 The world of an Arctic town.
 515 The admirable Arctic ravens.
 515 A diet of caribou, musk ondatra, musk ovibos, whale-muktuk.
 517 Farther north, now onto the Arctic Ocean.
 522 A diet of polar bear.
 522 An Arctic village, at the western end of the Northwest Passage.
 523 Past and future of polar ice.
 524 Fishing with net under ice.
 526 The Inuit, then and now (Eskimoes never existed).
 527 The many failures of local industry, except the delicate Inuk art, switched >>>> from spiritism to mercantilism.
 527 "Local" products, processed down-south and brought back.
 529 Thermal springs, vanquished by the cold.
 530 Massacre of gravid caribous by motorized Takud-Kuchins.
 532 Best Circumpolar Lights yet, plus a blue gleam of our star, plus a >>>>>planet, plus a satellite, plus other stars, all in one view.
 533 Hunter-hermit defends his solitude, to death.
 535 Marvel of a drop of water, rediscovered.
 536 Marvel of bird-chirping, rediscovered.
 537 Instead of warmer and longer days, warmer and shorter days.
 537 Traveling with a doubt: is our vehicle fixable?
 540 Where the famous gold rush was, gold is still extracted, part from the >>>>>tailings, part from tourists' pockets.
 541 Yes, vehicle fixable; four weeks and a small fortune.
 542 Instead of dawns wetter than noons, noons wetter than dawns.
 543 Whitehorse, the small town that can.
 543 An automated photograph-processing machine.
 544 Structure of the ghostly polar lights.
 547 Radio programs, yes, substantial; but classical music, only when everybody >>>>>safely sleeps.
 547 Some sort of dawn ... at midnight from the ... North.
 550 After six weeks, Expedition moves again.
 550 Seeing the same cake without the icing; different worlds.
 551 Instead of winter Arctic grandeur and antifreeze in gasoline, spring >>>>>mosquitoes and tourists.
 553 Advertising hyperbole spoils nice reality.
 555 Unromantic gold extraction.
 556 Where mosquitoes cannot reach.
 557 Where weather forecast most important, none available.
 557 Stretch of road within view, so vast that it took ten minutes to cover >>>>>it.