1679 Into Peru (not as Ecuadorians see it).
1680 We become instant millionaires.
1680 Peoples wearing out old goods, a blessing to humankind.
1680 Now, into Peru (even as Ecuadorians see it).
1680 But still in the northern province Chinchaisuyu of the Incas.
1681 Here landed Pizarro, but the monument honors the Incas.
1681 Pizarro was not the first Spaniard off the Tahuantinsuyuan coast.
1683 Pizarro was not the first European to contact the Inca empire; others did >>>>>- across Paraguay.
1683 Tremendous difference between Pizarroan aureate legend and harsh facts.
1684 What a destruction of road and bridges by rains on friable terrain.
1685 Diesel polyrhythm and polytimbre in petroleum fields.
1687 Endless true desert.
1687 Miracle oases with water tunneled through the Andes.
1687 The candor of calling speed-breakers officially spring-breakers.
1688 Beautiful and varied pre-Hispanic ceramics, in warehouse, with illiteracy >>>>>to match.
1690 The bureaucratic megalomania of building speedbreakers across roads bad >>>>>enough to prevent anything above 15 kilometers per hour anyway.
1693 Cajamarca: here Inca Atahualpa and gangster Pizarro met; all the sordid, >>>>>unexplainable ramifications.
1693 Cajamarca, archaeological site, colonial site.
1693 Strong, permanent flushing of toilets.
1696 Acephalizing an empire was not Pizarro's idea.
1703 The Inca rulers, a small group ethnically different.
1707 The pre-Inca Chachapoyas.
1710 The awe of descending, over hundreds of hairpin bends, during hours, from >>>>>3,200 meters to sea level.
1710 Most everybody doing things because most everybody else does them, and >>>>>mostly no one having the notion of doing otherwise.
1710 Cuntur Huasi, archaeological site; abandoned, as so many.
1712 Sinking in the unreliability of totally invented answers to our inquiries >>>>>on existence, or inexistence, of roads or tracks.
1712 Tremendous unavoidable risks.
1713 Elsewhere: in 10 non-stop hours = 150 kilometers.
1714 Elsewhere: in 11 non-stop hours = 112 kilometers.
1714 Crossing the famous Marañón River.
1717 Chipurik, weird archaeological cemetery.
1718 Radio receiver tunes in broadcasts from Colombia and from Chile.
1719 Cuélap, archaeological site.
1725 Juvenile vandalism.
1729 El Tingo, lost hamlet: should be model of urban structuring for >>>>>humans-as-beneficiaries, not as-victims.
1729 Fruits, no; vegetables, no; milk, no; etc.  Pastas, rice, sugar, yes, >>>>>yes, yes; etc.
1730 Revash, archaeological site.
1732 Anguish-causing "road".
1733 Opulent views.
1733 Ineffable gentleness of a dirt track without stones; in second- or first >>>> gear, of course.
1733 Driving into clouds from above.
1733 Days without another vehicle in sight.
1733 Stupendous twists in the "road" and views.
1736 Snails on cacti.
1736 Seeing stretches about to be traveled that will require 30 minutes, >>>>>50 minutes to be traveled.
1738 Milk-paste made rancho-type.
1738 The car-battery bought in Quito literally breaking into pieces.
1739 Which is more inhumane: these roads of uncertainties or the madness, >>>>>noise and pollution on freeways?
1739 Which is more inhumane: these solid-mud cabins without chemical fumes or >>>>>wood-and-filler box-houses?
1739 Building a road in these Andes is a recipe for titanic troubles.
1740 Animals seem more stupid.
1741 Again along the absolute sand-desert with oases.
1742 All this would be fertile if a marine current did not separate the land >>>>>from the high ocean.
1742 The case of the warm marine current that cools down as it nears the >>>>>Equator.
1743 Sand storms.
1743 Trujillo, colonial site with imported perversity and vulgarity.
1744 The pre-Inca Mochicas.
1744 Chan Chan, archaeological site.
1745 The pre-Inca Chimus.
1745 The ancient "totora horses" still navigating the sea.
1753 Miracle at the market: unadulterated nuts (one kind), unadulterated dried >>>>>fruits (one kind), even asparagus.
1753 Socially-minded museum hours: closed when most people could visit it.
1753 Cassinelli (one-man) Museum, in basement of gasoline station: a marvel of >>>>>Mochica ceramics.
1754 Tip: public museums are decrepit; fortunately there are great private >>>>>museums.
1754 The case of pre-Incaic neurosurgery and its epilogue.
1755 Care given to just-unearthed ceramic.
1755 Authentic, false - and half-and-half.
1755 Huaca del Arco Iris (or del Dragón), archaeological site.
1756 Huaca Esmeralda, archaeological site.
1757 Warnings, again and again: thieves, thieves.
1757 Huacas of the Sun and of the Moon, archaeological site.
1765 That atrocious inability to give directions.
1766 Sechín, archaeological site.
1768 Pañamarca, archaeological site.
1768 So much archaeology left to rot.  Maybe there is too much of it.
1770 Sand alive in endless total desert.
1770 Paramonga, archaeological site.
1771 Incongruous: in this total desert, dense fog.
1773 Creeping up the Andes again: 4,100 meters.
1773 What a tremendous change in the Andes from Colombia to these parts.
1774 Shadows of guerrilla.
1775 These people have no notion of time or distance.
1775 Huilcahuain, archaeological site.
1777 Xenolatry, betrayal of one's own culture.
1778 Cameras still steal souls.
1781 Conclave of summits above 6,000 meters.
1781 Altitude differential: 12.7 kilometers between Andes and coastal Pacific.
1782 ¿An archaeological site 1,800 meters down the Pacific Ocean; photographed >>>>>by a university-expedition?
1783 Heavenly harp-building-and-playing in a ruinous joint.
1785 Squeezing through 36 epic tunnels burrowed by hand-held hammer and chisel >>>>>in solid rock between a black cordillera and a white cordillera..
1792 Chavín de Huántar, archaeological site.
1793 Astounding ups and downs in the Andes.
1795 Family-size coal-digging.
1799 "Impossible" extracontinental similarities.
1800 The pre-Inca Chavíns.
1801 The exclusive puya cactus.
1803 Down 3,300 meters over some 750 curves and bends.
1805 Never mind the guerrilleros:
     the children are the real, unavoidable, destructive public menace.
1808 Artificial "trees" in desert, condensing fog.
1810 Illiteracy and inconceptuality, second worst after Vespuccia's.
1810 Lima, colonial site.
1811 Peruvian currency still honors the Sun-god of the Incas.
1811 Identification of the bones of Pizarro.
1813 Photo-processing: astounding and agonizing epopee.
1814 We were target of thefts, by day, by night.
1814 Milk, with fish-taste; butter, "reconstituted".
1815 Manholes without covers.
1818 We saw dozens of thefts in broad daylight.
1819 Total xenolatry - in the bad mannerisms, not in the good traits.
1820 Despising own culture, in writing, on T shirts.
1820 Public restrooms, repugnant; or the nearest tree; or our own vehicle >>>>>parked on the central plaza.
1821 Photocopies, same epopee as photographs.
1822 One-day general strike here; open-ended general strike in Bolivia; >>>>>martial law in Chile.  Hm.
1822 The false image given by Vespuccian short-wave broadcasts of events that >>>>>we see here.
1823 Nice Peruvian chamber music.
1826 Peruvian philately glorifies Peruvian archaeology ... with "gringo" >>>>>orthography.
1826 National Museum: idem.
1828 Interesting items and bewildering basic arithmetic, at that National >>>>>Museum.
1832 A case of real colonial art.
1833 So many comptemptible occurences; some, incredible.
1834 Tapestries, 2,500 years old.
1835 Lima, the best urban nucleus so far in this Expedition; even modern >>>>>additions fit well.
1840 New shock absorbers: 2; new spring-leaves: ... 5.
1841 What to think of a country that cannot produce the toys for its own >>>>>children?
1844 Three archaeological museums: outstanding treasures.
1844 Blond mummies.
1845 Museum of the Inquisition.
1847 Museum of Pre-Columbian Medicine.
1849 Pre-Incaic, Mochica, complete dentition in pink quartz.
1850 Were all those huge Inca gold-treasures really hidden after the >>>>>assassination of Atahualpa and his ministers?
1851 Pre-Incaic, Chavín, trepanation with gold occlusion.
1852 Traffic lights in all states of disrepair.
1853 Another Vespuccian fortress: the embassy-consulate in Lima.
1855 Cajamarquilla, archaeological site.
1859 Discovering Swiss classical music through Peruvian radio.
1860 From sea level up to 4,843 meters, on highest paved road on Earth.
1861 Also, highest standard railroad on Earth.
1861 Jicamarca, cientific radar, two degrees south or the Magnetic Equator.
1866 New (Ecuadorian) battery must be replaced by new (Vespuccian) one.
1867 Pachacámac, archaeological site.
1871 Paracas Peninsula, archaeological site.
1873 The pre-Inca Paracas, high masters of weaving.
1873 Norse-type mummies.
1874 The mysterious El Candelabro.
1876 Dust-type sand, strong wind - dangerous combination.
1877 Quipu-computers.
1878 Pathological mummies.
1878 Achaeological hair-style in fashion today.
1878 Fascinating controversy of the Ica glyptoglyphs.
1881 What could be the molecules C20H30O2  and  C22H32O5?
1886 Sandstorms as dense as fog.
1887 The Nasca Desert geoglyphs.
1894 The pre-Inca Dakays, in same area.
1895 The drama of loosening four nuts in a body-shop.
1896 Amphibious sand: walking from depth of sea to crest of dunes.
1897 Desert changes from implacable with silk glove to implacable with iron >>>>>hand.
1898 De luxe excrement: guano.
1899 An ancient cordillera disintegrating in the ocean.
1901 Arequipa, colonial site.
1901 Acute, permanent alertness against thieves.
1903 A stranger treats us like family.
1903 The delight of imbibimg clear information clearly expressed.
1904 Toro Muerto, archaeological site.
1905 How did birds settle in an oasis?
1909 Through 40 kilometers of clouds to 4,400 meters, the altiplano.
1909 Llamas and alpacas look us over haughtily.
1912 Some societies have it really hard, should not be criticized.
1914 The Andes, cradle of the universal potato.
1916 Rajrchi, archaeological site.
1916 Admiring stars, with most of the dense atmosphere underfoot.
1920 People whisper: a gold Inca neck-chain was thrown into that pond.
1920 Rajrchi, delicious Quichua hamlet.
1921 El Cusco, colonial site.
1922 A stranger, an instant uncle.
1923 Sunday, amongst the Quichuas of Chinchero, including mass in Quichua by >>>>>Swiss padre, with starting time depending on wine.
1924 Incaic agricultural terracing still extant.
1925 El Cusco, ghost of Tahuantinsuyu capital.
1925 Jrenjo, archeaological site.
1927 El Cusco, site of rapacious bleeding of tourists.
1928 Sajrsayhuaman, archaeological site.
1929 Trassajrs (our denomination), archaeological site.
1935 El Cusco, someone tried to break into our vehicle.
1936 Listening to short waves in Portuguese to prepare for Brazil.
1936 A public office too poor to afford a telephone, an employee.
1939 Ollantaytambo, today's hamlet grafted on Incaic remains.
1939 Ollantaytambo, archaeological site.
1941 Ollantaytambo, seat of paraboriginal conference demanding return to an >>>>>Incaic-style life.
1941 Pisajr, archaeological site.
1944 The paleo-Incas, before the Spaniards.
1950 Is strict Incaic economico-social structure the fate of our whole limited >>>>>planet?
1950 The neo-Incas, rebellion against the Spaniards.
1951 Machu Pijrchu: as archaeological site, tourist trap and debasement of the >>>>>Incas.
1960 Into the Collasuyu province of the Incaic empire.
1961 Efficient public transportation:
     same tricycle will carry people, animals, wares.
1961 Sillustani, archaeological site.
1961 A quarry of the huge Incaic stones.
1963 The Uros on Lake Titicaca.
1965 The Quichuas, the Aymarás.
1965 Uncertain tomorrow: Bolivian peasants are blocking the border-crossing.
1965 Chucuíto, colonial hamlet with archaeological remnants.
1967 One more swindle attempt in Peru (on the road between Chucuíto and Puno).
1968 Slipping out of the simian hands of an extortionist (on Lake Titicaca).